Perched at 17,500 feet, Everest Base Camp sits in a harsh environment where the human body struggles to survive. But during April and May, this rocky, frozen outpost transforms into a bustling tent city as hundreds of climbers and Sherpas arrive to prepare for attempts on the world’s highest peak. Despite the thin air and freezing temperatures, base camp buzzes with activity in the weeks leading up to summit bids. Teams acclimatize and recover between rotations higher up the mountain. Cooks prepare meals for ravenous appetites. And doctors attend to those suffering from altitude sickness. For Everest climbers, base camp represents a temporary purgatory – the final stop to rest and ready themselves before embarking on the ultimate quest to stand atop the “Roof of the World.”
Let’s explore what it’s really like inside this rarefied and extraordinary pop-up city.
Getting There is Half the Battle
Before climbers can even think about setting foot on Everest, they first have to trek to base camp. On the Nepal side, this requires a week-long hike through rugged terrain to reach an altitude of 17,500 feet. Porters often accompany expeditions, carrying gear and supplies on their backs or on the backs of yaks. On the Tibet side, it’s possible to drive directly to base camp thanks to a paved road. However the road is prone to dangerous landslides. Many climbers will still trek to base camp on the Tibet side as part of their acclimatization process. Either way, just getting to Everest Base Camp is an adventure in itself.
A Bustling Tent City
Over 1,000 climbers and Sherpas arrive at Everest Base Camp each spring. This influx turns the base camps on each side of the mountain into bustling tent cities. Expeditions claim camping spots on a first come, first served basis, with some teams sending representatives months in advance to reserve prime real estate. With so many people agreed in a small area, issues like sanitation, food, and supplies have to be carefully coordinated.
The atmosphere is abuzz as teams prepare for their summit attempts during brief weather windows. Climbers recover between rotations up the mountain and acclimatize to the altitude. Meanwhile, scores of Nepali workers run camp operations – cooking meals, melting snow for water, managing waste, and keeping climbers comfortable. The two base camps have a distinctly different feel. Nepal’s camp has more of a communal vibe, while Tibet’s camp feels more isolated.
Staying Well-Fed at Altitude
Feeding over 1,000 mountaineers and staff three meals a day at 17,500 feet is no small feat. But expeditions consider good food crucial for health and morale on the mountain. At the Nepal camp, base camp cooks work in messy tent kitchens to produce meals like porridge, eggs, flatbreads, rice, pasta, and canned vegetables. These carbs and proteins fuel climbers with the calories they need for summit bids. Snacks like candy bars and chips provide quick energy between meals.
On the Tibet side, the Chinese government provides and cooks food for all expeditions. Meals consist mainly of Chinese dishes like stir-fried meat and vegetables with rice or noodles. Fresh produce has to be trucked up to camp, unlike in Nepal where helicopters transport goods. As a result, options are more limited on the Tibet side.
Relative Luxury for Those Who Can Afford It
While early Everest expeditions rough camped in basic tents, today’s base camps range from no-frills to glorified glamping. High-end operators offer walk-in dome tents with cots, electricity, dining tents, and even showers. Other luxury amenities include WiFi, movie tents, and yoga spaces. Of course, this first class experience comes at a premium price – clients pay over $100,000 to have such comforts. Budget expeditions still use standard base camp tents and communal bathroom facilities. But either way, nights are short as climbers try to rest before waking up around midnight to start summit bids.
Medical Care in the “Death Zone”
The altitude at Everest Base Camp is already in the “death zone” above 18,000 feet where the human body slowly deteriorates. As a result, all expeditions need access to medical care. On the Nepal side, the Himalayan Rescue Association runs a small clinic called Everest ER to treat minor issues like headaches, stomach problems, and acute mountain sickness. For serious emergencies, helicopters swiftly evacuate patients down to hospitals in Kathmandu.
Things are more precarious on the Tibet side where the nearest medical facility is a 4-hour drive away. Some large commercial teams bring their own doctors to base camp. But for the most part, getting sick on the North side means a difficult and dangerous evacuation. Climbers have to be driven down thousands of rough road at high altitude while struggling for breath.
Relieving Oneself at 17,500 Feet
Let’s face it, going to the bathroom is not a glamorous topic. But at Everest Base Camp, it presents some unique challenges! With hundreds of people in camp, sanitation is critical to prevent contamination and illness. On the Nepal side, toilet tents line the edges of camp so human waste can be collected in barrels. Teams then have to carry those barrels down the mountain by yak or helicopter for disposal.
In the past, climbers buried waste in crevasses on the glacier. But now camp sites are cleared of all excrement to avoid polluting the Khumbu Icefall. On the Tibet side, toilets are set up adjacent to camp as well. But China has prohibited tourists from visiting base camp to limit ecological impact. While sanitation has improved, trash still piles up from past decades of not removing waste.
Internet Access at 17,500 Feet
While base camp is remote, climbers still find ways to connect to the outside world. On the Nepal side, a Nepali-owned company called Everest Link offers prepaid WiFi access cards. Climbers huddle in communal tents to email family and post updates to social media. But icy temperatures quickly drain phone and camera batteries. Services are more limited on the Tibet side where the Chinese government regulates communication. A few satellite phones may be available for emergency use. For the most part, Tibet base camp remains off the grid.
The Last Stop Before Summit Bids
Despite the physical discomforts and mental stresses of life at base camp, climbers know their time there is limited. After weeks of preparation and acclimatization rotations, the day finally comes to depart for a summit bid. Climbers wake up around midnight to start their push upwards, facing another 36 hours of grueling effort. They won’t return to the relative comforts of base camp for at least another 3 days.
For those who reach the top of Everest, base camp represents a milestone in their quest for the world’s highest peak. And for the hundreds who don’t summit, it’s the final stop in their Everest journey before returning home empty-handed. Either way, base camp remains a defining place in every climber’s memory.
